Wandering Marrakesh's Medina

Jemaa el-Fnaa in the morning is nothing like Jemaa el-Fnaa at night — by sunset it turns into a stage of smoke, drums, and storytellers surrounded by circles of listeners.

I spent an entire afternoon in a dye workshop watching wool go from white to a deep saffron yellow, dipped by hand in vats that have been used for generations.

Dinner was on a rooftop overlooking the Koutoubia minaret, call to prayer drifting over the rooftops as the sky turned pink.